Hill Tribes of the North - Chiang Mai, Thailand

The Northern Thailand administrative region is known for its population of native hill tribes which, much like the Native Americans of the United States, are an ethnic minority living in a strongly multicultural society. They are divided into various tribes and clans, each with its own set of customs and distinct subcultures. The most notable groups are called the Akha, Lisu, Hmong, Mien, Lahu, Paduang, and the Karen. They generally live in remote uphill and mountain lands, where they keep traditional villages and make their living from agriculture: without exception, their areas are rural and for the most part modern conveniences, education and economic opportunities are scant. Unlike the Native Americans, the hill tribes are not generally indigenous to the region but instead immigrated from bordering countries, such as Myanmar, Tibet, Yunnan, and China. The only exception to this is the Paduang, who are native to Thailand. Other tribes have been in the country only for about 100 years. In total, the hill tribes number at 700,000 to 1,000,000, making them anywhere from 1% to 1.47% of the entire population of Thailand (the uncertain numbers are due to difficulties in taking consensus among the hill tribes, many of whom are not registered citizens and who have no social security records or housing records with the government).

In the year 1959, the government formed the National Committee for the Hill-Tribes to assist in the integration of the tribes into Thai culture and society, while emphasizing that their cultures and animistic practices must be retained and preserved; that integration must happen without assimilation. Part of this is caused by their increasing population and the extreme poverty they suffer, as well as their agricultural practices which involve shifting cultivation and their slash-and-burn techniques, both of which threaten the forests and water reserves as well as contributing to drug trafficking, the last of which is illegal in Thailand. Toward curbing this and developing a sustainable economy in which hill tribes can live off the land without damaging it, the Royal Project-an organization founded by the current king to assist farmers and citizens living in rural areas-has sponsored a program to educate hill tribes on more environmentally aware farming practices, as well as providing them with the tools and technology to do so: among others, the Project has developed village roads, irrigation systems, and have made progress in bringing electricity to the mountain villages. This has led to a decrease in the growing of poppies and also assisted the tribes in becoming more prosperous and self-sufficient through the growth of winter crops, coffee beans (see Doi Kham coffee) and many other flora that cannot be sustained on the lowlands and most of Thailand due to the tropical climate. While they continue to suffer from marginalization and exclusion to some extent, the Royal Project has had considerable success in the matter of uplifting and helping them. The government has also initiated a program to establish and staff primary schools in these areas to ensure that hill tribe children are equipped with rudimentary education so that, when or if they do leave their villages for the cities, they will be better able to resist exploitation by unethical employers, and capable of finding jobs that conform to legal standards, including minimum wage and health insurance.

In addition to everything else, many hill tribe villages are now a tourist attraction: while it can be argued that this contributes to harmful exotification and that merchandising them is in many ways dehumanizing, there is an upside to the tourism in that it brings some income to the hill tribes themselves, and this is more than anything a welcome addition. So while you should certainly consider trips to visit these villages, it would also be helpful to make sure that you can respect their cultures while you are there and that you can treat them as human beings instead of zoo exhibits. Trips to the Golden Triangle, where the borders of Myanmar, Laos and Thailand meet, are particularly good as they tend to include multiple hill tribe visits.

Thailand Temple Etiquette

Are you up for a temple-crawl around Chiang Mai? Great! So am I—there’re entire streets lined to either side with nothing but temples. If you’re interested in Buddhism and Thai architecture, you’ll be in for a treat. Before we get around to where to find those temples and which notable ones you should consider visiting, though, you might want to keep a few things in mind to make your sightseeing as smooth as possible.

1. Temple dress code. It’s not that Buddhists are prudes who hate your bodies or think everyone should cover up from neck to toe, promise. It’s just that you wouldn’t wear bikini briefs to a church, a graduation ceremony, or a funeral either (unless you want to be politely asked to leave), would you? So put on something, they aren’t strict. T-Shirt and jeans, the standard-issue uniform of tourists everywhere, will be fine. Shorts are okay as long as they are of a reasonable length.
2. Leave something. A few coins in the donation boxes or a small bank note or two. Think of it as an admission fee—those lovely roofs and finials have to be maintained, after all, and they can’t do it on empty air. Every little bit helps! Take out some of that cash you were going to spend on a cup of Starbucks and distribute it across several temples. You can still get nice coffee from a non-franchise café (it’ll taste just as good if not much better) for half the price of Starbucks. Some temples have shops attached to them and, usually, if you buy souvenirs from those parts of the earnings will also go to the temple, if you don’t feel like just giving away small change.
3. No entry. Buddhist monks are celibate and certain parts of temples are barred to women. Yes, it’s not a model of feminism, but vacationing in Thailand is probably not the best time for advancing the women's movement cause.
Basic courtesy. Again, monks take their celibacy seriously; this means no contact with women, though in general regardless of your gender you shouldn’t be trying to shake hands with them in any case so men shouldn’t be grabbing at them either. Personal space, right? Likewise, even if you are an atheist or a Christian, please try to respect the icons and representations of Buddha or Hindu deities. No touching, handling, climbing, or creative redecorations. Yes, there really are people who do that and and Thai people tell horror stories about them. Don’t want to be one of those tourists, right?
4. Cameras. Some temples’ halls house relics and antiques, which can be damaged by camera flashes. They will therefore put up signs requesting that you not take pictures. It’s a simple rule, and easy enough to comply with.
   
5. Off with the shoes! This isn’t just for temples but for Thai houses, several establishments and restaurants: take off the shoes. They don’t really want you to track the dirt, mud, and possibly animal droppings onto their nice clean floors and carpets, and you wouldn’t want to walk in those either. It’s a sensible custom. Try it.

Simple, right? None of this is a hard-and-fast rule—all you need is a little common sense and you’ll have as lovely a holiday in Thailand as you could want! Don't forget to make sure you check in at a hotel close to temples for quick, convenient access.