Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Thailand Holiday: What to Pack When Traveling to Thailand

How do you prepare for your Thailand holiday? There are items you will definitely want in your suitcase, if not before boarding your flight then at least after you've checked in at your hotel and found a nice convenience store to buy these things from, especially since not all these items are readily available in an average K-Mart at home. Whether or not you need them all depends on the weather conditions in Thailand at the time (or the region of Thailand you are visiting), but for the most part they are necessary around the year.
  • Mosquito repellent: This is absolutely a must! More so if you are traveling during Thailand's summer season, and also one of the many, many reasons that should dissuade you from choosing bottom-of-the-barrel accommodation: no air-conditioning means you will be opening the window just to breathe and then it's open blood-sucking season. Mosquito repellents in forms of lotions are good, but you could consider insect-repellent bands as well, worn either on the ankle or wrist: creams and lotions are liable to be diluted by sweat. And in the tropics, you are going to be sweating a lot!
  • Sunblock: Do you happen to come from the United Kingdom? Be warned: in Thailand the sun is going to scorch your skin off and it's all sunny, all the time barring the monsoon season (though even then you will still see more sunlight than you do in an entire British year). Bring sunscreen and apply it generously whenever you want to take a walk around Bangkok or Chiang Mai; else you are going to find yourself limited to evening and very early morning strolls.
  • Power adapter: Unless you are from Hong Kong or any other countries which use 220V 50Hz power sockets, you will want a power adapter or two to keep your smartphones, electric shavers, and iPods going. Power sockets in Thailand accept two flat prongs, or two flat prongs with one ground pin. Prepare accordingly. (You can rent one from hotels above a certain price range, but if you're backpacking through guesthouses you should consider bringing your own.)
  • Bottles of water: This is something of a no-brainer: when you are on a tour through Chiang Mai or Koh Samui you may find yourself dehydrated, which can have all kinds of side-effects you don't want: dizziness, nausea, and digestive complications. Buy a bottle of water or bring a canteen, and keep drinking.
  • Clothes: You will want the lightest wear you have got. Short jeans, sleeveless tops, and similar should be the order of the day. Keep in mind, however, that if you plan to visit Buddhist temples as part of your jaunt through Thailand, you should elect to dress fairly sensibly in keeping with respect for the local faith. So the shorts don't need to be showing your underwear and the tops don't need to let the entire world count your every chest hair one by one. Think going to church, but less stuffy.
  • Wheeled bag/suitcase: Bring an empty one, if you can, and keep it with you just for shopping, because chances are good you will be buying a lot of interesting keepsakes, souvenirs and gifts from the Night Market or Walking Street in Chiang Mai and similar arts-and-crafts centers.
  • Umbrellas: Not so much for the rain as for the sun. Alternatively, wide-brimmed hats and caps will do just as well to keep your brain from boiling over and streaming out your ears. Just kidding: it's not that hot, but it's warm enough that having something over your head is going to be something you will quickly learn to appreciate (unless you're from Australia or sunny California and already used to it). Sunglasses may be a good idea, as well.
  • Footwear: Like the clothes you should pack, this ought to be light as well. Heavy formal shoes and stiletto heels are going to kill your feet in no time and the footpath isn't exactly baby-skin smooth. Light sneakers, sans socks, and slippers are good. Buying disposable flip-flops once you've arrived at your destination is sensible too.
  • Deodorant: Unless you honestly smell like Chanel No. 5 while sweating like a pig, you will want deodorant. A lot of it. Oh, and take something for your feet too, because that sweat will stink up more than your armpits.

Saturday, April 16, 2011

Thailand Cuisine: 7 Dishes to Try When Visiting Thailand

You will have heard of a few Thai dishes before, maybe eaten a rather bastardized version in so-called “authentic” restaurants at home: pad thai, tom yam kung, Thai green curry, or som tum. You know, the usual mainstream ones you can find anywhere, but usually in a watered-down shadow of itself, tasting nothing like the real thing. When you come to Thailand, you should definitely try them properly cooked, but if you’re visiting anyway why not go off the beaten track a little? After all, there's more to Thai food than those familiar dishes! Try out some of these dishes, which you may have never heard of before, so when you return home you can sniff and turn up your nose at your friends when you’re going to an “authentic” Thai eatery.

Pad kra prao muu/pad kra prao kai: pork and chicken respectively stir-fried with sweet basil, garlic, soy sauce, fish sauce, and Thai chili peppers. This dish is slightly spicy and emphasizes salty taste, and is best eaten with rice; some restaurants serve it with rice and fried egg.

Thot man pla/thot man kung: fish and shrimp cakes respectively. This is made of a paste that consists of minced fish (or minced shrimp), chili paste, cumin, coriander. The paste is then cut into thin slices, usually circular, and deep-fried as opposed to western fish cakes which are battered. It is strongly flavored and can serve as part of the meal or as snack. It may also be served with sweet plum sauce for dipping. Best eaten fresh off the pan and can also be bought from street vendors.

Tom ka gai: a variant on the tom yum (spicy Thai soup), the tom ka gai is a soup with a large helping of coconut milk, mixed with coriander, lime, chili peppers and lemongrass; tender chicken is added to steep in the soup. Suitable either to being eaten on its own or with rice.

Pad khi mao: a noodle dish whose name translates, literally, to “stir-fried drunk.” You can be assured, however, that there’s no human meat in the dish: it is traditionally cooked with seafood, though variants with pork, chicken or beef are just as common. The main ingredient is a wide noodle, which is stir-fried in a mix of seafood (or any meat; vegetarian options also exist, depending on the restaurant), peppers, baby corns, mushrooms, and holy basil. Seasoning includes soy sauce, sugar, and chili powder. The spiciness varies according to recipe, but you can always ask the restaurant to make it to your taste.

Kai yat sai: Thai omelet! But unlike the more familiar western variant, the stuffed Thai omelet is made by frying a beaten egg in a thin spread, putting in the stuffing (usually tomato, bell peppers and minced pork), and folding it into a square.

Pla sam rot: literally “three-flavored fish,” which is to say sweet, sour, and salty. The fish is deep-fried and served with a tamarind sauce whose main ingredients include tamarind paste, garlic, and chilies. The type of fish varies, though usually it is a freshwater fish.

Khai pat met mamaung himmapan: deep-fried chicken cooked with cashew nuts, dried chilies, and soy sauce. Like most Thai dishes (though this one has Chinese origins), best eaten with rice.

All of these dishes and more, cooked to perfection by authentic Thai chefs, can be had at the Thai restaurant at the Empress Chiang Mai hotel!

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Learning Thai for Traveling: Useful Phrases for Your Thailand Holiday

You are planning your next vacation, and that vacation is going to be in Thailand. Congratulations on a fantastic choice! But you aren't sure you will be understood by the locals? Well, you can learn the language, of course, but what if you aren't quite up to learning a whole language just for a vacation? Nobody is going to blame you. It's not an easy language - if anything it's quite tricky and much harder to master than English, especially if you don't have any background in Sanskrit and similar languages.

Khun phuut pasa angkrit dai ruu pao - "Do you understand English?"

Not interested in learning any other phrase or words? Then learn at least this one--it will go a long way in facilitating communication! Alternatively, it's a good way to check whether you need to fumble with your phrasebook or if you can just speak English.

Gin kaew chao tee nai  - "Where do I take breakfast?"

Useful to ask the desk clerk at the hotel after checking in, though most hotels have staff who can speak fluent English (if you are staying at cheap guesthouses, however, this may be something of a crapshoot).

Mai pen rai - "Never mind."

The equivalent of "Don't mention it" or "It's fine." Used to accept an apology or telling that you have taken no offense. Good in situations where a flustered waitress has just spilled or dropped something and you want to tell her that you don't mind.

Rakha tau rai - "What is the price of this [item]?"

The thing to ask when shopping anywhere in Thailand. Specifying the type of good is not required.

Khob khun krap/kha - "Thank you."

The "krap" and "kha" are gendered suffixes; the former is used by men to end sentences, the latter by women. It is considered polite to include them, especially when speaking to strangers.

Sawatdee krap/kha - "Hello."

Usually spoken with hands clasped together, head bowed and knees slightly bent, similar to the namaste gesture of Indians.

Rong praya bhan yuu tee nai - "Where is the hospital?"

Not necessarily useful if you are standing right in front of a hospital. :) 

Ha khao gin tang nai - "Where can I find something to eat around here?"

Helpful if you are not sure whether there are restaurants or eateries around where you currently are.

Ja ma mua rai - "When is it coming?"

Depending on the context this can be used by itself or may require an object to specify what you are asking after, but the language is sufficiently flexible that the listener should be able to get the gist of what you are asking (e.g. when is the food I ordered coming).

Rong ram yuu tee nai - "Where is the hotel?"

If you would like to be specific, you will have to add the hotel's name after "rong ram," i.e. "Rong ram the Empress yuu tee nai." Alternatively, if you'd like directions, you could also ask "Rong ram pai taang nai."

Mee arai naa gin bang - "Can you recommend me a dish?"

Can be used both at a restaurant to inquire the waiter or elsewhere to ask for suggestions of what to eat in general, though for the most part this phrase would work best when you're already at the table and perusing the menu.

Sanam bin yuu klai ruu plao - "Is the airport far away?
Pai duen tiew tee nai dee - "Where can I take a sightseeing stroll?"

The question would generally be answered with the name of a street or an outdoor market, though this depends on which part of Thailand you are visiting and whether you are staying in a city.

Mueng nee yai kae nai - "How large is this city?"

Saturday, April 2, 2011

Manners and Culture in Thailand: Is Haggling Good Etiquette?

When you google up tips and tricks on visiting Thailand, chances are good that you’ll run into reviews, travel advisories and posts on travelers’ forums that inform you of a crucial aspect in Thai culture: haggling. Horror stories will be told of how many have come home with luggage packed to the brim with baubles for which they paid six times their worth because they were scammed by street vendors in Chiang Mai at the Night Bazaar or in Bangkok at the Floating Market. Problem is: it’s not true. Sure, there are crooks who’ll trick you out of your money, but really haggling—also known as “being a cheapskate”—isn’t necessarily the way to experience Thailand’s culture to its authentic full. Just like anywhere else, nobody likes “that guy.” Have a glance at this primer to pick up a few facts on Thai haggling: when to do it, where to do it, and when doing it is gonna just embarrass everybody—you most of all.

1. Crafting villages, Night Market, Walking Street. This is where the myth that haggling is the thing to do does the most damage. Chiang Mai is a city of creativity and artists: often the merchants you see selling you that stuff is the same folks who made it. No corporations involved, no middleman, there isn’t even an Etsy in the between. Hence the price tags they’ve set are pretty reasonable, because you’re getting it straight from the source. Apart from that, artisans in northern Thailand make quality products and they’re proud of it. What they sell is hand-made, unique, high-quality and well worth the asking price (which isn’t that high to begin with! Again, compare to Etsy). Yep, there’s room for negotiation, but it’s not like they have got mark-ups that go sky-high and they do have to make a living. Don’t you think it’s awful that tourists force their profit margins to a negligible point, i.e. they barely break even? The best source for merchandise direct from artists and makers are the Sunday and Saturday Walking Streets, occasionally at the Night Market. (Crafting villages et al have higher mark-ups as they need to pay tour guides commissions, whereas people selling at the Walking Streets/Night Bazaar don’t have to.)

2. Supermarkets, department stores. "What are you saying?” I can hear you ask. “Who on earth tries to haggle at department stores?” Believe it, some do. There’re tourists who take the whole “haggling is part of the culture” very literally against all odds of common sense. Oh, that’s not you, naturally, but in case someone else is going to visit Thailand, you might want to give them the heads-up that really, don’t bother trying to pull that off at a 7-11 or a Tesco/Lotus even if the cashier’s Thai. Barcode isn’t exactly flexible, you know?

3. Gold and silver. The funny thing about precious metals is, everyone wants some and it’s sort of the thing that keeps world economy going. So when you’re buying jewelry that’s heavy on the gold or silver side, you should know that they go by the weight and the asking price is dependent on the trading rate for the metal itself, plus the price of the precious stone(s) and the craftsmanship. Should the merchant refuse to accede to your unreasonable expectations for discounts, remember they aren’t trying to rip you off. They just want to make sure their profit margin is a bit higher than “zero” or “negative.” Sapphires, emeralds, rubies and the like do give you more room to wriggle, though.

4. Hotels. This is where you can certainly haggle, as long as you pick the right hotel. My advice? Don't try this at hotels that are part of a huge international chain-Le Meridien, Shangri-La and all. They operate much like their counterparts across the globe and you simply don't walk into a five-star expecting bargains unless you are a card-carrying member with marks to redeem or have frequent flyer miles to burn. Independent hotels in Chiang Mai that are attached to no mega-corporations? That’s a different story. What’s more, you will be spoiled for choice, too: three- and four-stars hotels are everywhere in the city, serving with high standards and hospitality you just won't find anywhere else and certainly not at home. Pool your friends together and tell them you're looking to book three or five rooms, or even just one room over many days (say five) and the desk clerk or the reservation officer will almost certainly get you fantastic deals as long as you don't expect anything unreasonable like dancing girls or half price off. Most properties offer long-term rates too, with varying definitions of what constitutes "long-term." (Generally seven to ten days is a safe bet.)

5. Prices, scaling, and currency. Most tourists don't bat an eyelash paying full price for a cup of Starbucks, which in Thailand is enough to buy a good meal for one at a good restaurant. It's probably worth considering what you are about to buy is really worth and how much more you'd get out of it than a cup of Starbucks or a scoop of Hagen-Daz. Many vendors rely on selling their goods to get by, and they certainly can't afford a glass of coffee that costs almost as much as some of their pricier wares. After a certain point, haggling only saves you maybe half a USD while making the vendor's life just that little bit harder, possibly thinning their next meal. You don't have to care, of course, but it's something to think about, right?

As with any other kind of etiquette, common sense is the main guiding force behind the art of haggling in Thailand. Have fun shopping!

Thursday, March 24, 2011

Insider's Tips and Tricks to Chiang Mai Boutique Hotels

All over Thailand’s tourist hotspots like Chiang Mai, Bangkok and Phuket, “boutique” hotels have been cropping up harder than mice on a cheese. You can hardly turn a corner without running into a bed-and-breakfast or tiny guesthouse touting themselves as boutique, charming, and most of all cheap. Strolling around town or Googling up hotels, you are bound to find one or two that are going to look astonishingly reasonably-priced and amazingly luxurious: complimentary treats and meals, opulent design, extra packages at killer bargains. It’s even situated in a fine spot in Chiang Mai. Stop a moment. Did you do some research? The small price and large comforts don’t come without a price. But what could go wrong, you ask? Plenty! If you don’t know where to begin, I offer this checklist to glance through before you make your booking.
  1. How's their location? Many small hotels are owned and run by newcomers to the field, who have relatively little capital to invest. This means they will minimize cost on all fronts, including by building on cheaper land-land that is located well away from the tourist attractions and the city center. You don't want to stay at a hotel that's located in the middle of nowhere!
  2. Have they been certified by the TAT (Tourism Authority of Thailand) and do they operate with a hospitality license? This doesn’t seem that important to the average traveler—the paperwork and certificates aren’t your business. It’s worth keeping in mind that legitimate, licensed hotels need to pass inspections and follow rules and regulations: safety laws being foremost. There’re officials going through their fire exits, fire extinguishers, climate control, hygiene, even staff offices. So this wonderful hotel may have a gorgeous swimming pool and they offer Thai massage for free, but did you ask if they’ve got fire exits and alarms in the right places? When you start cutting corners, it’s easy to keep going. Unscrupulous owners don’t forego official licenses without a reason. Some properties dodge these requirements by badging themselves as “serviced apartments” and, though these will adhere to safety laws more vigorously, they aren’t a hotel and if you see “four-star serviced apartment” you should know it’s not much more than optimistic—and false—advertisement. Serviced apartments don’t get to apply for stars and don’t meet qualification guidelines.
  3. How many staff do you see around the premise? Small hotels cut cost in another area: salaries. Sure, you won't want people to bustle and invade your personal space, but you will want prompt service in the restaurant, the reception, and most importantly the housekeeping. Small staff rosters mean that less manpower will be dedicated to keeping the place in tip-top shape, including but not limited to plumbing, washing out the swimming pool, and more. Did you know how dirty water in pools can get? Trust me, you don't want to. With all those dead skin cells, body fluids, diseases: let's just say you don't want to look at them through a microscope. Best practice is to drain out the water every day and making sure the water going in has gone through disinfectants, but if a hotel doesn't have enough staff you can almost be certain they'll skimp on this.
  4. Security. Again, this relates to the problem of limited personnel: how many do they have in their security? Do they have someone to constantly monitor their CCTVs (if there are even any, and are there enough cameras)? This is one more area for which you don't want to accept compromises.
  5. How much maintenance do they perform, and how often? Fire drills? Power systems, elevators and drainage are inspected routinely by the authorities in licensed hotels. The ones operating without a license have no such motivation to keep them up to snuff.

There are plenty of trustworthy and officially licensed boutique hotels in Chiang Mai and elsewhere that fulfill all these requirements. Don't let yourself be lured into ones that don't.

Monday, March 14, 2011

For You: Picking Accommodation in Chiang Mai

Recession has affected the entire globe and nobody's gone unscathed; these days--more than ever--it is important to make sure that you maximize the value of what you spend. While that's not always easy thanks to the instability of mainstay currencies and parts of Asia are no longer as cheap as they once were, Thailand remains a destination whose expenses stay reasonable as long as you avoid premium spots like Phuket and Hua Hin: Chiang Mai is frequently neglected in favor of the more expensive southern Thailand, but it's nevertheless an attractive city. Marrying the charm of pre-modernization cities, Chiang Mai is the capital of the north and hardly industrialize. It offers a veritable range of activities from elephant camps to white-water rafting, from digital malls to cottage-industry villages. Fine hospitality and exquisite accommodation are offered at incredibly affordable rates but it's not easy to locate the hotel that's perfect for you with so many choices. This guide looks to suggest the things you might want to look for in a Chiang Mai hotel.

  1. You. Going alone, with family, with your spouse? Business or pleasure?  If you are traveling with kids, it’s a good idea to see whether the hotel offers suites or connected rooms and whether the swimming pool is children-friendly. Moreover, you might want to make sure the hotel has enough space for the kids to run around without leaving the premises (i.e. leaving your and the staff’s sight). Some hotels offer baby-sitting services, as well. Traveling with elderly? See if the hotel maintains emergency contact with local hospitals and whether it has an in-house doctor. Look through the hotel facilities. Make inquiries early and come to an arrangement that suits you best.
  2. Essential experience. Many hotels fluff things up with spa packages, twenty types of pastas, or seven kinds of mineral water in the mini bar. All well and good, but you might want to consider whether they are really things you need and whether they will have a genuine impact on your Chiang Mai holiday. Do you even like spas? Are you a connoisseur of mineral water? Less is often more and the frills distract more than they add—the frills, of course, being the factor that hikes up the price. You would be better off reading reviews for the qualities you know will enhance your experience: service, comfortable beds, breakfast spread, quality of food. The most fabulous décor in the world is going to be cold comfort if the desk clerks are rude, the housekeepers slack, and the waiters take twenty minutes to get to your table.
  3. Local flavors. Many travelers’ first instincts are to go with the tried-and-true: properties that are part of a huge global chain, for example. However, while that approach may be advisable in some destinations, in Chiang Mai it is far from necessary: by and large hotels in Chiang Mai, from three stars upward, are of more than commendable quality. Besides, there are franchised hotels everywhere in the world; wouldn’t you like to try something local, interesting and authentic? After all, you wouldn’t spend all your time in Thailand eating Pizza Hut and drinking Starbucks, would you?
  4. Say no to cheap. Unless you are backpacking (or even if you are!), you don’t want to pick an accommodation whose highlight begins and ends with being the cheapest in the area. Warning signs include “hotels” that tout that they have clean rooms with air-conditioning, features that should be taken for granted anywhere. Sometimes the difference in price is no more than a few hundred bahts or ten bucks, and it’s just not worth it to scrape the bottom of the barrel. Going bare-bones tends to mean everything will be truly basic, including but not limited to the plumbing and climate control system. You are here for a holiday and to treat yourself, not for boot camp.

Friday, March 11, 2011

Thailand Temple Etiquette

Are you up for a temple-crawl around Chiang Mai? Great! So am I—there’re entire streets lined to either side with nothing but temples. If you’re interested in Buddhism and Thai architecture, you’ll be in for a treat. Before we get around to where to find those temples and which notable ones you should consider visiting, though, you might want to keep a few things in mind to make your sightseeing as smooth as possible.

  1. Temple dress code. It’s not that Buddhists are prudes who hate your bodies or think everyone should cover up from neck to toe, promise. It’s just that you wouldn’t wear bikini briefs to a church, a graduation ceremony, or a funeral either (unless you want to be politely asked to leave), would you? So put on something, they aren’t strict. T-Shirt and jeans, the standard-issue uniform of tourists everywhere, will be fine. Shorts are okay as long as they are of a reasonable length.
  2. Leave something. A few coins in the donation boxes or a small bank note or two. Think of it as an admission fee—those lovely roofs and finials have to be maintained, after all, and they can’t do it on empty air. Every little bit helps! Take out some of that cash you were going to spend on a cup of Starbucks and distribute it across several temples. You can still get nice coffee from a non-franchise café (it’ll taste just as good if not much better) for half the price of Starbucks. Some temples have shops attached to them and, usually, if you buy souvenirs from those parts of the earnings will also go to the temple, if you don’t feel like just giving away small change.
  3. No entry. Buddhist monks are celibate and certain parts of temples are barred to women. Yes, it’s not a model of feminism, but vacationing in Thailand is probably not the best time for advancing the women's movement cause.
  4. Basic courtesy. Again, monks take their celibacy seriously; this means no contact with women, though in general regardless of your gender you shouldn’t be trying to shake hands with them in any case so men shouldn’t be grabbing at them either. Personal space, right? Likewise, even if you are an atheist or a Christian, please try to respect the icons and representations of Buddha or Hindu deities. No touching, handling, climbing, or creative redecorations. Yes, there really are people who do that and and Thai people tell horror stories about them. Don’t want to be one of those tourists, right?
  5. Cameras. Some temples’ halls house relics and antiques, which can be damaged by camera flashes. They will therefore put up signs requesting that you not take pictures. It’s a simple rule, and easy enough to comply with.
  6. Off with the shoes! This isn’t just for temples but for Thai houses, several establishments and restaurants: take off the shoes. They don’t really want you to track the dirt, mud, and possibly animal droppings onto their nice clean floors and carpets, and you wouldn’t want to walk in those either. It’s a sensible custom. Try it.
Simple, right? None of this is a hard-and-fast rule—all you need is a little common sense and you’ll have as lovely a holiday in Thailand as you could want! Don't forget to make sure you check in at a hotel close to temples for quick, convenient access.