Thursday, July 14, 2011

Finding Great Pizzas and PAstas in Chiang Mai

Are you visiting the cultural capital of northern Thailand, Chiang Mai, and struck with a sudden craving for some Italian? That's going to be a little tough since Thailand isn't exactly the capital of pastas and pizzas-but again, Chiang Mai is a city large enough to accommodate all tastes, and if you know where to look and are willing to browse and explore, you will always find just what you want. No need to settle for the cardboard and grease dishes at Pizza Hut, either!

Arco Baleno

With a menu replete in just about any item you could ask for of an Italian restaurant, this is easily one of the better choices you will find in town. For appetizer try the rocket salad if you're watching your weight, but otherwise there is the excellent crab au gratin, spinach crepes, and fried frog legs. Of course the main item is the sheer variety of pasta: from spicy daviolo, familiar items like carbonara, to four-cheese pasta plus ravioli, lasagna, cannelloni and nearly anything pasta-related you could name, this is the place to be for a pasta lover. Not to be outdone is their selection of pizzas using high quality ingredients for toppings and crispy, thin crusts underneath: recommended items are the parma ham special or the anchovy pizza. Each is slathered generously with mozzarella, salami, peppers, mushrooms and more (depending on the item you have ordered). When you are done with all that, try their homemade seasonal ice cream, panna cotta, and tiramisu. The restaurant is open daily and is run by an Italian family, though as far as this writer knows they have no mafia connections.

La Brasserie

This grillhouse provides succulent steaks, lobsters, and some of the tastiest chicken vol au vents you will find anywhere-but in addition to that they also have excellent pastas made to order. Unfortunately, they don't offer pizzas, though their garlic bread is definitely something to write home about. More than that, though, the La Brasserie gives you a certain feeling of class when you are in the restaurant decorated with stained glass and old-school European style, while trained maître d' pour you wine immaculately or make you fresh crepe suzette on the spot. Better yet, the price belies the elegance and opulence and doesn't cost much more than eating anywhere else. Availability can be variable, so phone them before you walk in. It's located in the business district on Chang Klan Road, about ten minutes away from the Night Market on foot. Perfect to go with your accommodation.


The Duke's

With the tagline "founded by a man who loves to eat... and eat, and eat" you can be sure that the portions at The Duke's do not come in "small" though some dishes on the menu will purport to. Order a medium pizza, though, and you're going to quickly find that it is not so middle sized and leans sharply toward huge, and we are talking about the size of the table you will be sitting at. Come as a huge party, order one Large pizza and you are all going to go home bloated as a bean bag. The quality of pizza is definitely more American than Italian-and if you want the genuine, honest to goodness article Arco Barleno would be a better choice-but if you don't mind thicker crust and a more liberal approach to authenticity, you will not be disappointed. They also offer calzones (stuffed pizzas) with customized stuffing tailor made to your tastes, sort of like Subway sandwiches but with a lot more, well, more. Noteworthy is that their pizzas are made in a wood-fired oven. The pasta dishes on offer are fairly average but you will probably be too busy with other sections of the menu anyway. Finish your meal off with some of their apple pies or cheesecake (both of which are, again, served in truly gigantic slices).

San Marco

Similar to Arco Barleno in terms of authenticity, but with a more Mediterranean slant and a slightly more stylish décor, furnishings, and a more convenient location. Prices are generally higher but the quality is not wanting, something attested by the fact that San Marco is almost always full in the evenings and you would be best off if you make a reservation ahead of time. Mainly open in the evenings daily.

Friday, July 1, 2011

What to Eat in Chiang Mai: Regional Dishes You Shouldn't Miss

Did you know that each part of Thailand has its own distinct cuisine? While most dishes you may be readily familiar with-such as pad thai-are eaten throughout the country, central Thailand, the South, the Northeast and the North all have their unique repertoires. So you have reached the north. You're sitting in a Thai restaurant in Chiang Mai, Thailand, but not quite sure where to start. Is this dish too spicy? Does it contain anything you're allergic to: nuts, dairy products, egg, soya, or seafood? Print out this little guide to begin your culinary adventure in the north. Typical ingredients used in these dishes will be listed in detail, as well, to guard against specific food allergies and keep your holiday from being spoiled.
Aeb muu
This dish can serve as both appetizer (albeit a heavy one) and part of the main course, usually eaten with sticky rice. The aeb muu is a paste comprised of pork and chili paste mixed together before being wrapped in banana leaves, and it is then cooked by roasting over a low fire or steaming. It tastes predominantly of chili and herbs, and tends toward spicy. Ingredients include the following: minced pork, diced kaffir lime leaves, coriander, spring onion, and chicken egg. The curry paste that serves as the main condiment consists of dried bird chili, salt, turmeric, galangal, lemongrass, garlic, and shallots. As you can see from the list, this makes for a very tasty dish rich with the scents, textures and unique flavors of no fewer than nine distinct kinds of spices and herbs. If you aren't partial to sticky rice, this is also good to eat with plain steamed jasmine rice.
Khao soy
This is a noodle dish marked by its distinct colors: bright yellow egg noodle and rich red-orange curry. It is definitely a main dish and can be very filling, with varying degrees of hotness, and eaten along with a number of side condiments sprinkled onto the noodle to add to the already strong flavors: pickled mustard greens, lime, spring onion, coriander and shallots. The curry itself is a thick soup that's made from curry paste (usually of similar or identical make to curry paste used in aeb muu) and a good helping of vegetable oil and coconut milk. As this originated as a Muslim dish-though it has since been absorbed into northern Thai cuisine thanks to a history of cultural integration and exchange of ideas-most khao soy is made with chicken or beef rather than pork, though the pork variation is also widely available.
Larb pla
The "larb" refers to a particular way of mixing boiled minced meat with chili paste, various spices and herbs. The larb pla is a fish variant, made from boiled fish grounded to a fine paste, shrimp paste, roasted rice grains, turmeric, lemongrass, coriander, spring onion, Vietnamese mint, garlic and vegetable oil. It's best eaten with crisp, fresh vegetables.
Kaep muu
Essentially pork shavings: this is a northern Thai snack with distinct flavoring, made from pork skin marinated in dark soy sauce then deep-fried until it is crispy and brown. No spices or herbs are involved, though it's a little heavy on the fat side: travelers cautious of the effect of hot food on their palates can sample this one without worry.
Yam sanat
A Lanna-Thai salad comprised of coarsely chopped vegetables stirred in curry paste: this is a perfect dish for those watching for calories or even vegetarians (as long as you request the restaurant to leave the minced pork out). The ingredients are long beans, water morning glory, eggplant, shallots, coriander, spring onion, garlic, and a type of acacia leaves.
Nam prik ong
Minced pork, chili paste, and cherry tomatoes are the main ingredients that make up this dish: the name suggests that it's one of the spicier dishes but is in fact the least hot of all "nam prik" dishes. Eaten with fresh eggplants, lettuces, pumpkin, long beans and cucumber.